The demand for affordable clothing is increasing in Africa, with many individuals opting for second-hand clothes, often referred to as “Okrika,” because designer items are expensive.
The growing demand for affordable clothing in Africa has sparked greater interest in second-hand apparel. In 2022, the leading exporters of used clothing included the United States, China, the United Kingdom, Germany, and South Korea. The African used clothing market was valued at $1.75 billion that year, contributing to the economy and generating employment opportunities.
Africa, recognized as a major destination for second-hand clothing, has cultivated a vibrant industry. The African clothing sector plays a crucial role in the economy by generating jobs in handling, alterations, refinements, and distribution. Furthermore, it enhances clothing demand throughout the continent by raising fashion awareness.
A report from the Observatory of Economic Complexity (OEC) reveals that five countries were responsible for the largest exports of used clothing in 2022: the United States ($1.01 billion), China ($852 million), the United Kingdom ($430 million), Germany ($360 million), and South Korea ($351 million).
Conversely, the leading global importers of used clothing included Pakistan ($250 million), the United Arab Emirates ($233 million), Chile ($225 million), Kenya ($202 million), and Guatemala ($196 million).
The OEC also states that the African used clothing market was valued at $1.75 billion as of 2022.
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According to the OEC, the table below lists the African countries that imported the most used clothing in 2022.
| Rank | Country | Import Value ($) | % Import |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Kenya | 202 million | 3.57% |
| 2 | Ghana | 164 million | 2.90% |
| 3 | Tanzania | 148 million | 2.62% |
| 4 | Angola | 127 million | 2.24% |
| 5 | Nigeria | 94.7 million | 1.67% |
| 6 | Cameroon | 94 million | 1.60% |
| 7 | Mozambique | 84.3 million | 1.49% |
| 8 | Benin | 80.5 million | 1.42% |
| 9 | Madagascar | 56.8 million | 1.00% |
| 10 | Togo | 51 million | 0.90% |
Although the trade in second-hand clothing imports from the United States, Europe, and other Western markets is legal in certain African countries, it has become clandestine in others where such trade is prohibited.
In 2016, the East African Community (EAC) aimed to prohibit second-hand clothing imports by 2019 to bolster the local textile industry. However, the United States contested the ban, arguing that it could violate free trade agreements and warning of potential trade penalties, including the loss of duty-free export access under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA).
To navigate this situation, Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, and Tanzania increased taxes on imported second-hand clothing. Notably, Rwanda raised its tax from $0.20 to $2.50 per kilogram in 2018, with the goal of protecting the region’s textile sector.
